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All these "special effects" and pop-ups of yours are really hurting my eyes , and are very distracting.

Carrier is TOPS!

I upgraded to a variable speed 5 ton carrier heat pump, propane furnace dual fuel system. Cost me around 9k including installation. 2500 sq ft, single story house. I am very happy with it! Hardly ever notice it's running and it does turn off, usually in the evening. Heat pump reaches its limit around 10-12 degrees then the furnace takes over. On average I'm saving $20 a month on electric and only fill once every 3 years on propane as appose to annually before.

Expanding foam is a fix put in between the blocks after it’s level.

Have you ever heard of Comfor-Aire? Made by a company called MARS. Do you have an opinion? Thanks

that is a little extreme of a slab angle

We had what seemed to me a rather precariously placed slab on a slope supported by stones that a reputable company put in place. It never budged though while we owned the house.

HELP ME!! have a 2.5 tonne in a new build (2021), in El Paso, Texas and it’s 1,100 sq feet and my system sometimes doesn’t cool and the house gets up to like 90degrees and I get a warning on my ecobee thermostat saying there’s a cooling problem. I’ve gotten two HVAC company’s out and both have told me my unit is too small. But according to all the data I’ve found, my unit is well within the range to be ok? I’m looking at a unit/furnace replacement and I really wanna explore every angle before I shell out a lot of money

This guy is a rookie with little experience.

Let that phone ring while he records a video.

Solid

The compressor itself should be level, but the concrete pad should absolutely NOT be level. A level pad (or worse, one tilted slightly towards the house) will cause water to pool against your foundation (or your siding depending on the pad height) and cause erosion. The slope away from the house doesn't need to be remotely as extreme as what was shown. 1/8" of drop per foot of run is sufficient to shed water away efficiently. I guarantee the compressor can handle that much tilt (cars can go up and downhill with the AC on after all) but if you're really worried about it, just shim the compressor to level, but leave the pad sloped outward. Don't believe everything you hear from someone who learned everything they know on the job within a highly specialized trade; they have absolutely no idea how their actions affect anything outside their scope.

We had a Lennox unit since 2011 and so far it's been a reliable unit. That only repairs we had was a bad capacitor twice in the past 13 years.

I have a 23yr old Rheem 10 Seer AC system. Still runs great. Over the years ive only had to replace the contacts and capacitor. It runs on avg only 3 months out of the year and then only for a few days at a time typically. Ive thought about replacing it just because of age, but id probably never get my money back on the new system and my biggest fear, the new system turns out to not be as reliable as the +20yr old system it would replace.

Code and compliance should never be an answer. We should understand why we do things in the correct manner.

Why are boobies good? How's a rainbow made? How does a posi trac in a Plymouth work??? It Just Does.

Who has their house set at anything other than 68 to 72? Who are these lizards setting their thermostat at 80 degrees?

Wait.... Don't they pour slabs on the ground? Looking at the bottom that definitely isn't a pre- poured slab. 😮 Add unit now and crack! 😂 I love professionals!

If one is using the square feet method that is fine if one has 8 foot ceilings. However if one has 10 to 12 foot ceilings then that will require more BTU's from a unit. Because more inside cubic feet of air has to be run through the unit. Also a two story house should have two smaller home units to be efficient instead of just one. One unit for the down stairs and another for the upstairs as they are complete different zones.

What about Payne?

You did not say equipment got more reliable !

In my first home, the house was built in 1975 and I bought it in 1986. I sold the house in 2000, so one time I pass by recently since I know the guy who bought it and I saw the AC was still the same one so that is about 49 years old.

Went from single stage goodman to a 2 speed Trane AC bill dropped little not much IMO the ROI not worth it. Better off with sealing your duct work, and better insulation. I'm in Phoenix when we run the AC it's running at full power seer like 8 when it's 117F with 26% humidity.

This is one of the easiest things to get right, but easily the thing most often NOT done right, especially in new construction. I see it every day, and it drives me nuts. My neighbors' units, which I can see from my porch, literally lean against each other and ALL of the mesh on both is smashed in. It's a miracle they still run at all.

Thanks for your honest information!

500 sf per toon

What do you think of a EVERWELL? I have this brand of a/c in my house. I have no problems.

ALL companies that do installs offering financing IS A SCAM! They slap your home with leins right and left like duchebags over whatever. Get your OWN loan with your OWN lender should you need financing!

i had a place say the system had to go. i refused and it was hell getting them to cancel the install and just as unfun trying to get my mom to let me cancel... turns out i got another good 2 years out of the old system. it was not replaced until it sprung a freon leak aka the old R22 stuff. so ya sprung a leak, got replaced. new system is great. i got lucky

Get maintenance done first, and insulate your attic as much as is practical. A little extra is worth the money.

Insulate

Installed a Goodman 5 ton hvac myself 20+ years ago. Ductwork, ran line set, made a plenum... I did have the line set brazed and system charged, It still works great. All I have done is change filter and hose off the outside fins. Should I have it checked, recharged or ? Im a bit afraid to have it touched as perhaps that could create a problem?

My Amana is by far the best of 6 brands I have owned.

My Rheem high efficiency heat pump is 34 years old. I live in C. Florida so from March until October the unit runs daily. From November to February, off and on heat or cool on when needed. I've replaced the fan motor, capacitor and contacts just once each. No leaks. I clean the evaporator and compressor coils occasionally and change the filter about monthly. I got an AC guy who maintains my rentals and gives me great prices. He told me "run it 'til it dies". Amen.

please talk about cubic feet of air conditioned space along with square footage. tall ceilings can make a big difference in load plan.

the early 2000 ruud and rheems that were cheap as hell are the best systems that will ever be made, those tubular heat exchangers never cracked and the condensers are tanks most of those are still chuggin along with the round 70s and 80s carrier condensers.

Common sense.. But then again, sense isn't so common anymore.. and Yes I have commercial plumbing knowledge..

I disagree with the annual PM's. Every time they come out and attach their gauges a small amount of refrigerate is lost which adds up over the years. In addition the A/C companies usually send out their least experienced people to do the PM as a learning experience for them. There is no way to predict when an electrical component is going to fail. Just go outside and listen to your a/c every month and listen for any problems.

How much $$ is a capacitor cost to buy?

My gf could have done that!

Interesting point- my neck of the woods we don't pour concrete pads. I do have one criticism though. When setting a condenser pad it is best not to have it butt up against the foundation. That tends to transmit vibration inside the house, causing unnecessary noise. The more distance you keep from the house, the less noise you're going to introduce inside. Last thing- While I agree with him leveling the pad, I don't agree with how he leveled the pad. You're better off removing the pad entirely, leveling the ground, then replacing the pad. Most guys aren't going to do that but it's the better way to do it. Plus you've got problems if it was poured in place concrete and the ground wasn't level in the first place. Waiting for incoming flak!

Fascinating. It sounds like this is generally for the better, but is having real impacts near term. I have a mid-century (1958) home in Phoenix with the air handler for the 5-ton system in an exceptionally tight attic area. It's twenty years old and I can see the writing on the wall. The system is going to need an expensive reconfiguration with the air handler brought down to floor level, but where exactly I don't know. There's no natural place for it.

Seems to me like the two speed and variable speed system is sells pitch!

You’re not factoring in the house insulation!

A/C should never be chosen by sq ft. it should take into account the cu foot of the house. the type of windows and number of windows. Also the R value of the insulation, And how much sun does the house get during the day. Then there is your location in the country.

Mine is 52+ years old x works great

Yep I agree the auto industry same they are installers not techs. They don't diagnosis. They are sales installers.

simple solution is to avoid rule of thumb. obtain a proper heat load calculation. obtain a manual j and a manual d from a competent hvac contractor. anything short is a bull sh**t discussion. it is pure guess work. the variables of insulation factors, windows, and shading varies significantly from house to house. a blower door test would indicate the infiltration. the many localities requiring these tests are growing nation wide. time to move on from guess work and rule of thumb. btw, these test are not very expensive

36 seer split unit AC are better. It's not really ideal for a huge house, though.

Love your videos!